Cuenca, Ecuador

Cuenca, Ecuador

Saturday, December 20, 2014

Remaining Connected to "The Grid"

Remaining Connected to “The Grid”
Unlike a very small number of ex-pats, we have no intention of moving to Ecuador and disappearing off “the grid.”  We will remain fully connected to the grid, thank you very much!  Thanks to the internet, that is much, much easier now.

BANKING

ATMs and banks are everywhere in Ecuador.  We can use our US debit cards at them. We switched most of our banking from Bank of America to Charles Schwab Bank and Capital One to make using foreign ATM’s easier (and free!)   We switched our charge cards from USAirways to American Airlines to capture more travel benefits.  With online bill pay, we don’t anticipate any issues.

EMAIL

Over the past few months, we migrated all of our email accounts over from our cable TV provider to gmail so that we could access email via the internet anywhere in the world. 

INCOME TAXES

Because we leave the US on February 21, 2015, we have plenty of time to file our 2014 income taxes.  2015 will be done remotely in Ecuador.  We became residents of South Dakota; therefore, we will not be subject to state income taxes while living abroad.  YES – we are still US citizens (and will always remain so) subject to federal income taxes on our earnings (investments, my independent contracting, etc.)  I think we have the tax issues addressed. Dealing with paper Forms 1099 and other tax forms mailed to South Dakota may present a small bump, but we have plans in place.

INTERNET

When logging onto the internet in Ecuador (or another country) you don’t always have access to the same webpages you had at home.  For example:  Netflix knows you are not in the US; therefore, it won’t be available to you in Ecuador. A way to get around this issue is to “hide” your computer’s IP address by making the internet “think” you are still in the US.  There are a lot of ways to do this, but we bought a router that is programmed to have a US-based IP address regardless of where in the world it is physically located.  We will be able to surf the net and stream videos as if we are still in Charlotte.

TELEVISION

We already have DirecTV satellite installed in Cuenca.  It is hooked up to a 50” Smart TV we bought.  On a side note:  televisions and electronics are about 2 ½ times more expensive in Ecuador.
We bought a Roku3 device that will allow us to watch movies via the internet.
(not much smaller than actual size!)
TELEPHONES

We've had our home telephone number for 16 Years.  We wanted to keep it so that our friends and family in the US could continue to reach us WITHOUT having to call an international number in Ecuador.  Vonage, Magic Jack, and Ooma are all services that use the internet to become your telephone.  We bought Ooma and have been using it here in the US for a few months.  It works great

We hook up Ooma to our internet in Cuenca, and we immediately have our existing US-based phone number.  We can call other US numbers for free, and Americans can call us for free.  Ooma also lets us have a secondary line that I use for my business. A cool Ooma feature is:  our tablets and mobile phones also act like a US-based phone number when using Wi-Fi.  This came in handy when traveling around Europe recently.  When connected to Wi-Fi, I used the Ooma app on my iPhone to call the US for free!
Ooma telephone system

I will take my iPhone 5S (by then, I will have cancelled my Verizon contract) and have an Ecuadorian SIM card put into it.  Meaning, my iPhone will have an Ecuadorian phone number.  I’ll use it only for calls within Ecuador.  When I visit the US, I won’t have a cell phone but I will use my Ooma app when connected to Wi-Fi.

Tom already got rid of his iPhone.  He bought a BLU brand Android-based phone. (model Studio 5.0 HCD)  The BLU phone has dual SIM cards, meaning it can hold an Ecuadorian AND a USA phone number.  He signed up for Straight Talk no-contract service for $35/month.  He will use the Straight Talk here until we move, and will use it when we come back to the USA for a visit.  When we get to Ecuador, he will have an Ecuadorian SIM card installed.

Ecuador has several cell phone service providers.  Just like here, there are pros and cons to each.  We’ll get more recommendations for a service provider once we are in-country.

We will also get a land line for the condo – they cost almost nothing, and may come in handy.

Of course, we also have Facetime and Skype to remain connected.

MAIL & PACKAGES

As residents of South Dakota, we have a mailing address in Madison, SD.  We hired a private company to receive our mail. Items go to our private PO Box, then they are sorted and we get an email telling us what is there (Bank of America envelope, Old House Magazine, coupon booklet, etc.)  We tell them what to do with it – discard, forward, or scan and email to us.  We will NOT be having anything mailed to Ecuador.  Anything important will be forwarded to friends or family to be dealt with later.  Realistically, how much physical mail does one deal with today?

Something that we will miss is online shopping.  Shipping items to Ecuador is very costly and time consuming.   There are services that will allow us to order things online (Amazon, Nordstrom, etc) and have them shipped to an address in Miami.  That service will then ship them to Ecuador in bulk shipments with other ex-pats doing the same thing.  By all accounts, the service is decent and safe.  The largest outfit is/was actually an offshoot of the Ecuadorian postal system.

Forget about sending letters and packages to us from the US!  We won’t be offended by e-cards…..and we hope you aren’t as well ‘cause that’s what you’ll be getting from us!

Our plan to get items to Ecuador is to carry them back with us on return trips to the US.  That’s the easiest, cheapest, and quickest way to get items to Cuenca.   When you visit, I’m sure we will have a long list of things we want you to “mule” down for us.   I can’t promise that you won’t end up on “Locked Up Abroad” though!


Saturday, December 13, 2014

Sonny Bunny's Travel

Sonny Bunny’s Travel


Unless you've been living under a rock, you already know that I obsess over our orange tabby cat!  From day one, I've called him “Mini-Me” because he truly is my clone:  OCD about dirt, control freak, loves to aggravate Tom, etc.   (Yes, we even took him to Disney World!)

Because I am a crazy cat dad, my number one worry about moving abroad wasn't selling everything, moving away from friends and family, quitting a job I love – no, it was how to make Sonny Bunny’s relocation as stress-free as possible.  

He turns 16 on July 4, 2015.  (He’s a rescue; therefore, we don’t know his exact birth date.  He was about 9 months old when we got him.)  Until this autumn, he’s been very healthy due to his completely stress-free lifestyle.   His biggest concern is: which of his 5 beds is he going to nap in today?

With his recent surgery to correct a urinary tract issue (and a few related complications) my concerns about his health have skyrocketed.  Fortunately, he has the city’s best veterinarian, and he’s now recovered.   Still, one of my first tasks upon arriving in Cuenca is to find a great vet.  Thanks to other cat owning ex-pats, I have some great recommendations.  Prepare yourself, Cuenca – Cat Daddy is about to arrive!

NOTE:  We are following Ecuador's written rules in obtaining all of Sonny's paperwork.  Many ex-pats claim that pets (especially cats) merely get a glance when arriving in Ecuador.  No paperwork is checked, no documents denied, nothing questioned, etc.  Better safe than sorry!

Taking a pet to Ecuador really isn't difficult.  There’s no quarantine requirement for bringing pets into Ecuador.  AS OF NOW, there is no requirement that they be micro chipped, nor is there a requirement that the pet be spayed or neutered; HOWEVER, timing is crucial.

Sonny just returned from the vet for the first round of vaccines, updated rabies shot, and a microchip.  He must have those shots at least 21 days prior to arrival in Ecuador.  Although Ecuador doesn't require a chip (at least not yet) we decided to go ahead and chip him anyway - just in case the rules change OR he gets separated from us.

We have to take Sonny to our vet within 10-days of our departure.  On Thursday, February 12, our vet will do a general check-up and make sure Sonny has the required vaccinations and flea treatment.  Nothing unusual – he’s got everything needed, but our vet still has to sign off on the paperwork.

On Friday, February 13, Tom will drive the paperwork to a USDA-approved vet in Raleigh, North Carolina.  That vet will then certify the paperwork, and release Sonny to travel abroad. 
THEN, the road race begins:  On Tuesday, February 17, we have to drive to the Ecuadorian Consulate in Atlanta, Georgia with his USDA-approved paperwork. Sonny does NOT have to go.  For a $50 fee, the Consulate will issue Sonny his very own entry visa for his Pet Passport.

72-hours in advance of our arrival in Guayaquil, we have to call an Ecuadorian office to alert them of Sonny’s arrival. 

Sonny is going in the cabin with us.  He’s traveled many, many miles via RV; however, this is his first trip via airplane.  We will sedate him for the trip.  We have a 3-hour layover in Miami, but fortunately, we will spend it in the Admirals Club.  We’ll hide out with him in a quiet corner.

We bought him a fancy new carrier http://sleepypod.com/air   and a TSA-approved harness (no metal) for the airport security checks http://www.tsafastpass.com/ 

Stock Photo- NOT Sonny Bunny!


Because he will be in the carrier for many hours, we also bought him these pads to put in his Sleepypod:   http://sleepypod.com/dryfur   just in case he has to pee between stops.

We are going First Class on an American Airlines’ 767-300ER.  That aircraft has seat pods that become beds.  We've been in those seats before….and the footrest area where Sonny’s carrier will ride is pretty tight.  I’m sure I’ll end up putting his carrier on my lap in flight (to avoid drafts and help me relax as well!)  The flight from Miami to Guayaquil is about 4.5 hours.

For the record, I expect a water cannon salute as we taxi to the terminal. The Royal Prince Sonny Bunny Campbell Coker has arrived on Ecuadorian soil!

An American Airlines Boeing 767 receiving a water cannon salute.  Pay attention, Ecuador!




We will take two disposable litter boxes for the trip.  The first will be used at our overnight hotel in Guayaquil, and the other will be used at our apartment in Cuenca until we go to the store and buy him a proper box.






I've tried to think of everything he will need for the journey:  collapsible food and water bowls, food, snacks, beds, toys, and litter boxes.  God help Tom Coker on this journey with a 15-year old cat, and a neurotic cat dad!  

Saturday, December 6, 2014

What Are We Taking to Ecuador?

What Are We Taking to Ecuador?

Ahhhh, the million dollar question!  To be honest, we change the answer quite a bit – almost on a daily basis.

Most people moving to Ecuador only take the luggage they can get on a plane.  Others fill a large container and have it shipped to Ecuador.  There are pros and cons to each, but we are going the luggage route.

First, let’s look at what American Airlines says we may bring on board the plane.  The most we can take is a total of 10 pieces of checked baggage + 2 carry-ons + 2 personal items + Sonny Bunny’s carrier.   

Sonny is going in the cabin with us.  Technically, he should count as one of my carry-ons; however, since we’re paying $110 to have him with us, I’m NOT going to count that!  We’re in first class, and there always seems to be a lot of extra overhead bin space, so I’m not worried.  We’re flying on a 767-300ER for you fellow aviation nerds.  You know who you are.  You’re not fooling anyone!

Each checked piece is limited to 50 pounds AND certain size dimensions.  We’ll go over the 50lb limit on a few of the items; therefore, we will have to pay excess weight charges.  All told, we will probably be looking at about $600 in excess bag and excess weight fees. 

2 of these soft bags

4 of these footlockers

           
So, what are we taking?   We broke it down into two areas:  things we can’t get in Ecuador, and things we want to keep.  We’ll probably add and remove items to these lists as we get closer to departure.  Because we bought the entire household already in Ecuador, we are free to focus on the more “fun” things to take.
Things we can’t get in Ecuador:

Of course, we can find some/all of these in Ecuador; however, they are expensive or not the “latest & greatest” models found in the US.
        

  •     High end European bed linens
  •         Good quality bath and kitchen linens
  •         New laptop computers
  •         New tablets/iPads
  •         Ooma home telephone system (more on this later)
  •         Roku TV system (more on this later)
  •         Special internet router (more on this later)
  •         Vitamix
  •         iPod sound bar
  •         Apple-brand iPad/iPod chargers (“generic” models are dangerous!)  
  •         Good quality food storage containers
  •         Small items requested by other ex-pats (everyone becomes a “mule” at one point!)
  •         Lots and lots and lots of clothes and shoes
  •         Kitchenaid stand mixer and high end cookware (in storage to be brought down later)

Things we want to keep (or will need right away):
        

  •     Items we've picked up on our travels through the years
  •         Flash drives containing photos and important documents (wills, tax returns, etc.)
  •         New cell phones that will work in the USA and Ecuador (more on these later)
  •         Favorite kitchen gadgets (odd, I know, because we don’t cook!)
  •         Sonny’s beds, favorite toys, and small supply of his current food & treats
  •         Office supplies and ink cartridges for the printer/scanner/fax already in Ecuador
  •         Small tool bag with household tools
  •         Lots and lots and lots of clothes and shoes
We've tried to prioritize the things we THINK we will need right away. We’ve been to the stores and shops in Cuenca, so we have a pretty good idea of what is readily available there, what is better to bring with us, and lots of stuff in between. 

We will always bring stuff back to Ecuador on our return trips to the US.  The first round of which is already in storage in Tom’s mother’s basement.  No doubt, that list will grow quickly!

When you come to visit, we will also probably have a list of things for you to bring…………prepare yourselves!   Like I said, eventually, EVERYONE becomes a mule!


Saturday, November 29, 2014

Our New Home in Cuenca

Our New Home in Cuenca

On our trips to Cuenca, we walked around several neighborhoods and even hired a driver to give us a tour of the city.  We wanted to get a feel for which neighborhoods seemed too busy, too far away from shopping, etc.   

Before we continue, I have to point out the Ecuadorians consider ANY outsider to be a “Gringo.”  It is not a slur or a demeaning term at all.  It doesn't even mean you are white – it just means that you are not a local.  Ecuadorians returning to Cuenca after years of living abroad may even be considered “Gringo.”

Like the show “House Hunters International” we narrowed our search down to 3 different areas: 

1.      El Centro.  Downtown area and home to a lot of Gringos.  Cobblestone streets, ancient buildings, cultural and emotional heart of the city.  ….and lots of diesel bus fumes!   We love the idea of El Centro, and were currently living in Charlotte’s Uptown.  We are used to the noise, people, congestion, etc. of living in the middle of a city.  We stayed in El Centro on our trips to Cuenca ….but we just couldn't get the diesel bus fumes out of our head (or lungs!)

2.      “50/50”   This is a large area south of El Centro.  It was nicknamed “50/50” by an Ecuadorian who thought the area was about 50% Ecuadorian and 50% Gringo.  (In reality, it is more like 99%/1%) We liked the housing in this area, but most were single family homes, duplexes or triplexes.  We like the idea of increased security typically found in highrise living, as well as the reduced maintenance.

3.      “Gringolandia”  An area west of El Centro easily identifiable by the large number of highrises and Gringos.  There’s a large shopping center (and a new mall being built) in the area.  Even though it is called “Gringolandia,” the Gringos are still the overwhelming minority.  There are a lot of wealthy Ecuadorians living in this area as well. (I think Gringos tend to over-estimate their impact – good and bad - on local communities!)

We chose Gringolandia.   We just prefer highrise living - and since we won’t have a car - we wanted to be close to shopping, light rail line, taxis, etc.   To be honest, EVERYWHERE in Cuenca is close to shopping and mass transit!  Most people do not own a car, so it is a very walkable city.   

On our first trip to Cuenca, we met a Canadian ex-pat living in a highrise in Gringolandia who took us under her wing. We told her that we wanted a unit in her building if anything ever became available.  Later, a unit in her building was about to become available, and she let us know.   We were still 6-months out from arriving, but we jumped on this very rare opportunity.  

We bought the entire household from an American widow returning to the US.  We liked the idea of stepping foot in Cuenca with all of our baggage (and cat!) and being able to open the door of a fully furnished place – everything from teaspoons to a washer & dryer.  …And we already know a handful of the building’s residents!  Lots of gatherings to be had, I’m sure!  Rest up, poor liver!

Specifically, we have a 3-bedroom, 3-full bath unit on the 7th floor of a building built in 2012. There is another floor above us, then a roof top terrace.  We have a small balcony (seem to be rare in Cuenca.)  There’s an underground parking deck for a possible future car, and retail women’s clothing shops on the ground floor.  We have a 24-hour guard controlling access to the building. “Edificio Amazonas” is the building’s identifying name.

We are on Los Pinos (The Pines) street.  Los Pinos is a small street that ends at Cuenca’s famous Rio Tomebamba (Cuenca’s largest of 4 rivers)    Here’s a Google Maps link to it:





We are about half way down the street on the east side of the street.

We are the next to the top floor, entire front of the building.   Each floor only has 2 units.

When you visit, you will have plenty of room.  If you prefer, there’s also a guesthouse on the same street.      http://www.hostalnuestraresidencia.com/    We’ve walked by it several times, but have never stepped inside.  US-branded hotels (Hilton, Marriott, etc.) don’t exist in Cuenca…..yet.

For a more “traditional” hotel that is very close (walking distance) to our building, you can try the Oro Verde hotel.  Cuenca has several incredible boutique hotels, but Oro Verde is currently the best large hotel in town.     http://www.oroverdecuenca.com/    Bonus:  whenever you are out & about in a non-English speaking taxi and need to get home, simply tell the driver “Hotel Oro Verde” and, viola, you’re close to us.




Wednesday, October 29, 2014

Our Ecuadorian Visa and Residency Paperwork



Visa and Residency Paperwork


NOTE:  When you fly to Ecuador to visit us, you do NOT need any paperwork or a special visa for your US Passport.  You will be granted a 90-day visa upon your arrival.  Easy, peasy.  This conversation is only for those wanting information on how we plan to get our permanent visas to live in Ecuador.

I won’t get into all of the various types of entry visas Ecuador offers to foreigners.  Suffice it to say, they make it very easy to move to Ecuador – especially when you compare it to other countries.

When we arrive in Ecuador, we will have the standard 90-day visas I mentioned above.  We will immediately apply for a longer TEMPORARY 6-month visa to give us time to apply for a PERMANENT visa.
Confused yet?  Try to understand all of this in Spanish!!

Regardless of the visa one obtains, much of the same paperwork is needed - birth certificates, marriage certificates, arrest records, fingerprints, bank account statements, etc.  Some of that paperwork is needed while still in the US, some is needed after we arrive in Ecuador.  It can be confusing and intimidating.  It is certainly possible that one may obtain their visas entirely on their own.  Many, like us, hire a facilitator to do the legwork for you.  We still have to gather the paperwork; however, the facilitator makes sure it is correct, translated into Spanish, and is current with the ever-changing Ecuadorian laws/rules/requirements.

There are two main types of permanent visas ex-pats get (very simplified explanations):

       Pensioner Visa.   If you can prove an $800/month pension (either Social Security or private) Ecuador will grant you a visa.  They want to make sure you are able to support yourself while in country.  I’m sure the $800 is set to increase at some point.  Personally, I would not want to have to live on $800/month – even though it is over 2 times the Ecuadorian minimum wage.

   Investor’s Visa.  If you deposit $25,000 in an Ecuadorian bank, Ecuador will grant you a visa.   Again, they want to make sure you have funds at your disposal.  That money cannot be accessed for quite some time.  (It does pay interest, though)   This is probably the easiest visa to get.

We are getting a permanent “Professional Visa.”  Ecuador has a master list of pre-approved universities around the world.  If you have a degree from one of those universities, Ecuador will give you a visa.  There are some other requirements such as proving you have thousands in a bank account (a US bank is fine) but that is the deal in a nutshell.

Why don’t many ex-pats go this route, you ask?  Well, most qualify for a Pensioner Visa because they are retired and drawing Social Security.  Also, it appears the Professional Visa was sort of a seldom talked about secret.  It takes longer than an Investor’s Visa; however, you don’t have $25,000 tied up in a foreign (ie: risky) bank. I'm too much of a Capricorn accountant to be comfortable with that!

      
Tom’s University of North Carolina was on the list.  My school, Ball State University, was not on the pre-approved list.  That means an extra step (ie: slight delay) as they add BSU to the list.  Now that BSU is being added, subsequent alumni seeking a Professional Visa won’t have this delay.  You’re welcome!

Oddly enough, with a Professional Visa you are NOT required to have a job in Ecuador.  They just like the POSSIBILITY that you may work there.  Ecuador obviously values education – it is evident from grade school through the 4 universities in Cuenca alone.  Yes, you read that correctly:  4 universities.

Will we work in Ecuador?  Who knows.  I will be working as an independent contractor for my current company.  That will keep me busy during tax season.   We both may volunteer for something in Cuenca, but for now, our plan is to not work locally.

RESIDENCY

As soon as we get our permanent professional visas, we will then apply to become residents (not citizens) of Ecuador.  Of course, this is a separate piece of paper (and entirely different process)   The “cedula” (sed-u-la) will give us almost all of the rights and responsibilities as a citizen.  Think of it as sort of a national ID card – a lot of information is tied to your cedula number.   The facilitator we hired to do our visas will also help us with the cedula.

We are retaining our US citizenship.  Will we become Ecuadorians?  Who knows.  At this point, I don’t see much benefit – other than getting to meet el Presidente, and being able to carry a cool Ecuadorian passport.  When the hijackers round up the passports, I’ll be handing over my Ecuadorian one…….but somehow I 
suspect they will still know I’m from Indiana!

NOTE:  During the first couple of years after being granted your visa, Ecuador limits the number of days you may spend out of Ecuador.  They don’t want you to get your visa, then hardly ever return to Ecuador.  They granted you a visa to live in Ecuador and contribute to its society and economy!  Remember:   they WELCOME and WANT you here!

Thursday, October 23, 2014

Preparing to (somewhat) Disconnect



Preparing to (somewhat) Disconnect


A lot goes into moving abroad.  We’ve both done it before, but this is the first time we’ve done so together.  
The basic principals are:

  •        Downsize possessions to become lean and light
  •        Mentally prepare to be a very long way from family, existing friends and your comfort zones
  •        Making plans to remain connected to “the grid” once you move abroad


Downsizing was relatively easy for us.  For some looking to move abroad, this is tough!  Here’s what I suggest people do as they make this transition:  rather than stress over leaving grandma’s silver behind, instead take with you what grandma REALLY gave you - your love of travel, your stubbornness, your ability to adapt to change, etc.  I think she would be much happier, because that was her real gift to you – not silver that anyone can buy on eBay!  I like my “stuff” so this was something I had to teach myself to embrace!

Mentally preparing yourself for a move abroad is tough for just about anyone.  Many people love the idea of moving abroad….then the first grandchild is born back in Iowa.  Suddenly, being a day’s travel time away from the grand kids becomes a prison sentence.  Inevitably, someone is going to become ill or pass away back home.  You then have to make the decision to do an unplanned, expensive, international trip back home.  Add complicated visa requirements that may limit your time out of your new country, and suddenly you are dealing with a lot of new issues. 

It’s been a very long time since Tom and I have lived in cities with other family members.  We’re now used to the idea that family = airline.  Granted, it will be a much longer trip now, but we’ve never grown accustomed to simply stopping by a relative’s house while out running errands.  Family will continue to equal airline.

We are going to miss our friends as well.  Most of our friends are diehard RVers.  By nature, they are travelers and wanderers, so we hope they will fly to Ecuador! Taking an RV to Ecuador IS possible – we’ve seen them on the streets – but I would NOT want to make the trip!  

We have a secret bet as to which family member or friend will be the first to visit.  Smart money is on one of our globe trotting nephews!

Making plans to remain connected to “the grid” has been a very long, well-thought out process (done entirely by Tom with A LOT of help from current ex-pats in Cuenca) We still have American bank accounts – how will be access the money while in Ecuador?   What about our internet, satellite TV,  cell phones, mail, email, taxes, telephone numbers, Netflix, Amazon?  ….on and on.

Since staying connected is such an important (and detailed) plan, I’ll separate it out to another post.  For now, just know that we've put a lot of thought and planning into this relocation.  I'm sure something will come up (it always does!) but - hopefully - we already have a contingency plan for that as well!